Category Archives: Underground

Alan Vega and The Sisterhood.

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The band Suicide circa 1977, in front of CBGB’s, NYC.

So if 2016 wasn’t wretched enough, we now learn about the passing of artist and musician Alan Vega (1938 – 2016).

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Self titled album from Suicide released in 1977. 

Alan Vega was best known as a member of the experimental band Suicide. Their self-titled album is now considered groundbreaking. Suicide was influential figure to many New Wave, Punk, Post-Punk, early Goth and Industrial acts. The list goes on like a roll call: Soft Cell, Depeche Mode, Ultravox, Devo, Joy Division/New Order, Sonic Youth, Big Black, D.A.F., Nick Cave, Ministry…the list goes on. They even left an impression on Bruce Springsteen. Today, Suicide’s impact can still be felt with the post-Electronica set, and bands like Radiohead.

Suicide‘s songs such as Frankie Teardrops has been covered numerous times. Here’s a cover of ‘Ghostrider’ done by Marc Almond of Soft Cell (Marc mentions Suicide being an influence in his autobiography) and Clint Ruin, otherwise known as Jim Thrilwell, Wiseblood, or Foetus.

It was one of his influences Henry Rollins, that broke the news of Vega’s passing.

When I was a teen just getting into underground music culture, I saw Alan Vega do a solo gig. He was opening up for a band, in which the name escapes me at the moment. It was at The Ritz, which is now known as Webster Hall, in NYC. This was sometime during the mid-1980s. When he was performing, I had no clue who he was. Now I consider myself lucky to have seen him live.

As of this blog posting of July 17th, 2016, if ones does a quick internet search, you can find out more about Vega and Suicide. Right now I’m going to focus on when Vega worked with members of the Goth band Sisters of Mercy.

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Sisters of Mercy.

In 1986, Sisters frontman Andrew Eldritch decided to create a new side project. Entangled with a lot of red tape and personality conflicts between the other members Sister of Mercy, The Sisterhood was created.

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Cover of the album from The Sisterhood. 

Long story short, somehow Alan Vega along with Patrica Morrison (later to join the second version of Sisters of Mercy) got involved with Eldritch’s version of The Sisterhood. The single “Giving Ground” was released in 1986.

According to Wikipedia: Alan Vega gets a credit on the album cover but it remains unknown whether he made any contributions to the recording. He was possibly part of the “Chorus of Vengeance” on the track “Rain from Heaven”.

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Alan Vega

Regardless of whether Vega did or did not contribute to The Sisterhood. It was still an acknowledgment of Vega’s impact on the Goth sound. In Goth clubs you can still hear this song being played.

Alan Vega was also an accomplished yet uncompromising fine artist. Right up to the very end, he was constantly working on projects. Here’s a link of a 2012 exhibition. Here’s an interview from 2015.

The beautiful thing about Vega was he lived life on his own terms. Especially now since that philosophy is becoming more of a luxury in today’s corporate era.

“I like performers who I know are for real. You can tell, man, there’s an intensity about their stuff. You can tell right away they’re real people, ya know?” – Alan Vega.

 

Post-Punk Online Photo Archives.

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Traditional 1980s Goths. Photo from http://nowthisisgothic.tumblr.com/ & http://www.post-punk.com

Here’s some Post-Punk and Traditional Goth photo galleries online that you should check out.

http://www.post-punk.com/oldschool-gothic-a-gallery-of-80s-goth-and-deathrock-culture/

http://nowthisisgothic.tumblr.com/

http://www.cvltnation.com/portraits-of-80s-death-rock-goth-culture/

http://metro.co.uk/2015/01/25/growing-up-goth-11-things-youll-only-understand-if-you-wore-black-in-the-80s-5021653/

http://flavorwire.com/470012/stylishly-striking-portraits-from-1980s-italian-goth-clubs

Pinterest is another good site for uncovering ’80’s Goth photos.

Finishing this post is an old clip found on YouTube. Footage of ’80s Goth dancing at some unnamed club.

Happy Birthday Siouxsie

Just wanted to wish the one and only, legendary Siouxsie Sioux a happy birthday. Much more than an original Goth prototype, Siouxsie unleashed her own unique brand of style, sound and charisma. This iconic Gemini forged the blueprint that can never be truly duplicated.

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Siouxsie Sioux. Photo from Soho News, circa 1981. Photographer 

 

 

 

 

Winklerpickers

Now for a light hearted fashion moment. As opposed to having a heart as black as your soul. (Ooff! Bad cringing joke there.)

Back in the 1980’s, no self-respecting Goth went without at least big hair, pale makeup, black clothing, and at least one pair of Winklerpicker shoes or boots in their wardrobe.

A trad Goth fashion staple. The Winklepicker.
A trad Goth fashion staple. The Winklepicker.
Bat buckles on a pair of ankle length Winklepicker boots.
Bat buckles on a pair of ankle length Winklepicker boots.

What are Winklerpickers you ask? Besides being originated sometime around the 15th century, Winklerpickers were first worn by 1950’s and 1960’s subcultures such as the Teddy boys and girls. The pointy boots The Beatles used to wear was part of their early iconic look. The Mods added this style of shoe to their wardrobe. The Winklerpickers became a trad Goth staple during the 80’s after the Punk/New Wave movement brought the appearance back in stride.

Assortment of Wicklepicker shoes and boots.
Assortment of Wicklepicker shoes and boots.

Even Rik, the obnoxious pseudo-anarchist character from the UK television show ‘The Young Ones’ wore red Winklepickers.

Rik the pseudo-anarchist university student that no one liked from the British television show 'The Young Ones.'
Rik the pseudo-anarchist university student that no one liked from the British television show ‘The Young Ones.’

Growing up in NYC during the 1980’s, I remember West 8th street (in the Greenwich Village area of Manhattan) having show stores which specialized in the pointy toe shoe variety. Further down the street heading to the East Village was Trash and Vaudeville. The store sold all kinds of rock n’ roll footwear, including the infamous Winklepickers. Trash, as it’s affectionately known, is still in business at the exact same location to this day.  Maybe they might even have a few pointy pairs in stock.

Vintage pair of Goth Wicklepickers. Photo from eBay.
Vintage pair of Goth Wicklepickers. Photo from eBay.

I had totally forgotten about Winklepickers, until I went to an Absolution club night in either 2011 or 2012. One of the DJs and promoters, Jason Ledyard, was sporting a pair going halfway up the calf.  After not seeing someone wear a pair in years, the sighting made me do a double-take. As a side note, Absolution was a long running Goth event created both DJs Jason until late 2013.

Eighteen hole Winklepicker boots. From The Gothic Shoe Company.  http://www.thegothicshoecompany.com/products/gothic-18-buckle-boots

Eighteen hole Winklepicker boots. From The Gothic Shoe Company.
http://www.thegothicshoecompany.com/products/gothic-18-buckle-boots

(*UPDATE: Don’t order from The Gothic Shoe Company!)

You can still purchase a pair of Winklepickers  online from various sites. If going vintage, there’s always eBay and Etsy. Otherwise you can buy new ones from sites such as Pennangalan or The Gothic Shoe Company. Below is a list of some sites, both for reference and maybe shopping if you desire a pair.

Classic pair of ankle Winklepicker boots.
Classic pair of ankle Winklepicker boots.

Till next time…

 

Links:

DJ-Jason – Facebook page

Xtine – Her new Tumblr site

http://absolutionnyc.com/2011/02/06/winklepickers/

http://www.thegothicshoecompany.com/collections/gothic-buckle-boots

https://www.facebook.com/wickedwinklepickers

https://www.tumblr.com/tagged/winklepickers

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/09/19/winklepickers-womens-boots-under-100_n_1893569.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winklepicker

 

Propaganda Magazine

One of the first magazines catering to the Gothic subculture on US shores was Propaganda Magazine.

Cover of Propaganda Magazine, issue 15.
Cover of Propaganda Magazine, issue 15.

Established by New York City photographer Fred H. Berger, this publication set the bar for the US Goth faction between the years of1982 to 2002. While the articles were usually short, the photography itself captured the essence of the (then) Goth underground.

Another classic front cover of Propaganda Magazine, issue 13.
Another classic front cover of Propaganda Magazine, issue 13.

Before the internet, people found out about bands through word of mouth, and magazines such as Propaganda. For example, it was through this magazine that I discovered the influential NeoFolk band Death In June.

The photography mostly done by Fred H. Berger, carried a lot of androgynous imagery.  Far from being one dimensional however, the photographs also hinted at sexuality, particularly homo-eroticism, bdsm, role playing, and fetishism. It also covered body modification way before the mainstreaming of tattoos and piercings. Other subjects included religious imagery, paganism, vampirism, literature, and history.

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Unfortunately Propaganda Magazine folded in 2002. The official website ceased three years after the publication stopped. Not Besides a Wikipedia entry and a Facebook page, not much information regarding Propaganda Magazine seems to be found. Fred H. Berger himself seems to remain a mystery. Personally I wish that Berger would take the photos during the Propaganda era, and put the collection into book form.  (According to the Propaganda Magazine Facebook page, a book proposal is in the works.) It would be fitting, since Propaganda Magazine was not only influential to me during my teen years, but to the overall Goth-Industrial-Post Punk subculture.

A later edition of Propaganda Magazine, issue 25.
A later edition of Propaganda Magazine, issue 25.

Postnote: If 1980s Goth photography interest you, there’s a book titled ‘Some Wear Leather Some Wear Lace.’ (Andi Harriman & Marloes Bontie, Intellect, Bristol, 2014) You can check out the book on this site: http://www.postpunkproject.com/

 

*The photos you see in this blog post were not my scans. They were taken from various sources on the internet, since I had long lost my own copies of Propaganda Magazine aeons ago. Apologizes and thanks towards those who had posted images from this publication. You may also order back issues of Propaganda Magazine by contacting Fred H. Berger through the magazine’s Facebook page.